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Posted by akashoeman (???) star about me on Aug-21-00 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Index

Welcome! This section has been reserved for opinions, commentary, and articles on various aspects of comics and eBay not covered by the rest of the FAQ. Please note that the opinions expressed here are simply that, and nothing more. Pick a link!
Posted by akashoeman (???) star about me on Aug-21-00 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Sniping

The Stupidman Chronicles

Lance,

Here you go, everything regarding my infamous sniping letter. The first thing is my original letter, the second is a response from someone at Overstreet who I did reply to but made no comments, just said thanks, the third is the reply from the editor A. Blumberg of Overstreet, and then my response to Blumberg's letter that I sent to CBG.

Have fun!
Stu

  1. Dear Mr. Overstreet,

    You wrote [in the 2000 Overstreet Price Guide] regarding on-line auctions: "There are also some rather uncouth trading practices in use today, such as " 'sniping,' in which a buyer sneaks onto an auction in the last seconds and puts in a final bid, and numerous instances of fraud being perpetrated on buyers who do not exercise caution."

    First of all, I really dislike that fact that sniping and fraud are "linked" together by appearing in the same sentence, implying that sniping is illegal or immoral in some way. Sniping is perfectly legal on eBay, and many sellers actually encourage it (why wouldn't they?). And correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the highest bid win the auction, regardless as to whether the bid is entered during the first minute of the auction or the last?

    It is obvious you do not have a lot of experience bidding with on-line auctions, or you would realize that bidding in the last few minutes actually saves you money. Do you know how many sellers out there have more than one ID? If you bid your maximum the first day of the auction, the seller's second name (called a "shill") is often used to bid up your price until it nears your maximum. So, for example, instead of myself being the only bidder on an item and winning it for $10, the shill ID bids me up to just under my maximum of $20 and I end up paying $19 for an item I should have won for $10. If I bid in the last few minutes, this does not happen.

    So what happens if the shill makes a mistake and outbids me, and subsequently wins the auction? Well, the seller e-mails me saying "Oh, the high bidder just backed out of the auction, and since you're the second highest bidder, I will offer it to you at the price you bid (my maximum)." If I accept I again would end up paying almost twice what I should have won the auction for.

    So, bidding in the last seconds of an auction: Uncouth? Hardly. Smart? Definitely.

    Stu Cathell

  2. Stu,

    Thanks for your comments.

    Yes...sniping is perfectly legal. I lost a baseball jersey when someone else snuck in a final bid at the exact final second. Despite my bid having an extra $50 cushion, I still lost. The winning bidder's tactics were perfectly legal, but I doubt this bidder would be so cavalier in person. People engage in many behaviors online that they would never do in public. Hiding (relatively anonymous) in cyberspace, bidders like this can be as "uncouth" as possible, whereas "uncouth" actions in public could result in someone getting their teeth kicked in. It wouldn't surprise me if CNN reports some disgruntled sniping victim hunting down his adversary and administering some payback. This scenario would make a riveting Movie of the Week starring Kirstie Alley and Christopher Walken. There's little doubt from whom I'd be rooting.

    I was willing to bid more for that baseball jersey if given the chance. The seller lost money because of the time restriction. Perhaps one day, ebay will adopt a different option. The seller would still designate an end time, but the auction doesn't end until 1 minute has passed since the final bid. This would result in the potential for higher bids, so I doubt that the sellers would complain.

    So, bidding in the last seconds of an auction: Uncouth? Yes. Smart? As long as no one knows where you live.

    Sincerely,
    The relatively polite Mark Huesman

  3. Greetings,

    On behalf of Bob Overstreet, I'd like to respond to this note by saying that in the simplest terms, Bob has his opinion about the moral and ethical underpinnings of a practice like "sniping," and he's certainly entitled to speak his mind about such an issue in his own forum. I too share the same belief that "sniping" is probably best characterized as a rude or uncouth practice that is nevertheless perfectly legal and acceptable in the on-line auctioning community. Please keep in mind that just because something is legal doesn't mean it can't violate the standards of certain individuals or groups or be perceived as inappropriate behavior. In Bob's perception of things, "sniping" is just such a subject.

    There's no denying the fact that the Internet has forever changed the way we relate to each other in these new cyber-communities, and there's also no doubt that this situation will require us to adjust to new standards of behavior and etiquette in various instances. Some of these practices, codified under terms like "netiquette," already exist in a common law sort of way, but they are constantly changing. In this case, by all traditional standards of the auction process, "sniping" would have been impossible prior to the Internet in the way it's practiced by bidders on eBay. In a traditional auction taking place in an auction house, everyone is present in the same room bidding on an item. When the last bid is taken, the next to last bidder always has that last chance to make another bid. There is fair opportunity for all participants to pay as much as they'd be willing to pay for an item until the last bid is taken and the previous bidder acquiesces.

    Now, however, we are dealing with a very different animal. Everyone is bidding in asynchronous time in their own homes or offices, and a time limit restricts how long the auction can last. Even more significantly, a bidder can sneak in a bid at the last moment and the previous bidder has no clear opportunity to try to top that bid; there is no longer a fair opportunity for that person to bid again. For anyone who is used to the traditional style of bidding, this can certainly be perceived as an unfair advantage, or at least inappropriate or uncouth behavior. For those of us who are quickly acclimating ourselves to a new paradigm or for those born after the emergence of the Internet, this may seem perfectly common, even reasonable behavior.

    I would like to note that there are now a number of "unofficial" guides to eBay and on-line auction bidding that provide detailed information about how to conduct yourself on eBay as either a buyer or a seller, and while many of these guides gleefully discuss strategies for "sniping," I've noted with some amusement that almost all of them comment on the fact that this is a dodgy practice that many people see as rude or a bit unfair. Clearly, Bob's statements are hardly unique, and many people share the same feelings about "sniping."

    The issue of shilling is a completely separate matter, and there's no denying that too is an offensive practice that has no place in a fair market. But like many unethical business practices, these things happen whether we wish them to or not, and the most a buyer can do is be as informed and cautious as possible.

    As for lumping "sniping" in with a mention of fraud, this was hardly meant as a direct correlation but necessitated by the fact that unfortunately, we were required to comment on this new trend in the market in a limited space. By at least recognizing the ongoing development in on-line collectible trading in those few short comments, we provided some important information about this new aspect of comic collecting, but by no means was it intended as a thorough examination of all the issues involved, many of which are even now being hotly debated as the world struggles to catch up to the full implications of e-commerce and on-line auctions.

    It all comes down to a simple fact: Bob's opinion is an easily defensible position shared by many other people who feel that "sniping" is a rude practice that unfairly takes advantage of the technology and environment of on-line bidding. Perhaps one day this opinion will change. Obviously for some people, the cut-throat method of bidding is the preferred strategy, and it works...

    ..but I'll bet it feels a bit different when someone snipes you.

    Regards,
    Arnold T. Blumberg
    Editor, Gemstone Publishing

  4. Hello, I am sending this email in response to Arnold T. Blumberg's letter in CBG # 1381 (his words in quotes), which I actually received via email a while ago... Here's a few comments:

    AB: "In this case, by all traditional standards of the auction process, "sniping" would have been impossible prior to the Internet in the way it's practiced by bidders on eBay. In a traditional auction taking place in an auction house, everyone is present in the same room bidding on an item."

    But that was then, this is now. Obviously, the traditional auction is a dinosaur, destined to eventually go the way of 8 tracks and the, uh, dinosaurs. And what of the "real world" silent auctions, where companies are invited to submit sealed bids for a project, and then all bids are opened on a specified day and the lowest bidder wins the job? If someone's bid arrives on a Monday, and then someone else's arrives on a Friday, is that illegal or immoral? Don't they both have the same chance of winning? Didn't they place their bid before the specified ending time, whether they did it the first day of the auction or the last?

    AB: "Even more significantly, a bidder can sneak in a bid at the last moment and the previous bidder has no clear opportunity to try to top that bid; there is no longer a fair opportunity for that person to bid again."

    Why does the bidder need another opportunity to top that bid? Why do they need to bid again if they already bid their maximum, i.e., the most they were willing to pay? If you bid your maximum using the proxy method and then lose, what are you going to say, "I would've bid more!?" Then you didn't bid your maximum, did you??!!

    AB: "The issue of shilling is a completely separate matter, and there's no denying that too is an offensive practice that has no place in a fair market. But like many unethical business practices, these things happen whether we wish them to or not, and the most a buyer can do is be as informed and cautious as possible."

    Well, now you're just making an argument for sniping here, because the only way to be as cautious as possible IS to snipe, no doubt about that. This is a proven fact. You can't have shill bid you up to your max if you wait until the last minute to bid.

    AB: "It all comes down to a simple fact: Bob's opinion is an easily defensible position shared by many other people who feel that "sniping" is a rude practice..."

    And conversely, my view is also an easily defensible position shared by many other people. Stop by the eBay Comics Chatboard some time and see how many buyers and/or sellers are against sniping. None! Or on any Ebay chatboard, really. Sellers pray for snipers, buyers love sniping. The only ones who hate sniping are sore losers.

    AB: "...but I'll bet it feels a bit different when someone snipes you."

    Actually, no, because I am a realistic person who lives and dies by the snipe. If I bid my maximum and I lose, then there's no reason to get mad because I bid my maximum (definition: "the most I was willing to pay"). What's to get mad about? I am at fault, I didn't bid enough. I never cry "sour grapes." But then again, not everyone's as cool and mellow as I am.

    Thanks,
    Stu


Call me crazy, but does anyone else get the sense that Arnold Blumberg has stopped by the chatboard, checked out our humble FAQ, and is aware that Stu's a contributor? I'm serious! Arnie's lurking!

"I would like to note that there are now a number of 'unofficial' guides to eBay [this here Comics Board FAQ] and on-line auction bidding that provide detailed information about how to conduct yourself on eBay as either a buyer or a seller [Dos 'n' Don'ts - "dos for buyers and don'ts for sellers" (must read)], and while many of these guides gleefully discuss strategies for 'sniping,' I've noted with some amusement that almost all of them comment on the fact that this is a dodgy practice that many people see as rude or a bit unfair. [From Dos 'n' Don'ts: 'Many sellers dislike this practice, as it results in lower winning bids. Many buyers also dislike this practice, as it results in being outbid at the last second.']"

Thanks for the plug, Mr. Blumberg!

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Posted by whbjr (???) star about me on Aug-21-00 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Slabbing

EDITOR'S REQUEST: CGC's policies and their impact on the industry are ever-changing. In an effort to keep this section as impartial and informative as possible, I ask that anyone with new information or well thought-out opinions please submit material to yours truly for inclusion here. Thank you.
The Case For and Against the CGC
by Win Bent

The Case For the CGC

Grading: The main service offered by Comics Guaranty, LLC (CGC) is the consistent, certified grade it gives to comics. This is a great boon to the investor, who previously had to rely on the opinion of one or more graders who may have used a nonstandard or biased grading system. In addition, CGC graders check for restorations done to a comic, and note such restorations on the grading label - no more surprises!

Protective Holder: By "slabbing" a graded comic in a tamper-evident protective holder, both the buyer and seller will know what to expect; buyers will know what to expect (a benefit particularly attractive to those buying via phone, mail, or the Internet), and sellers can be confident that their comics will retain their condition in storage and shipment.

Various Grading Systems: The CGC has several categories of grading systems: "Universal" (blue label), "Modern" (red label), "Restored" (violet label), and "Qualified" (green label). These standard systems allow for the differences in expected ranges of quality (readily distinguished via the label color - no more guessing!), as well as noting high-grade comics with a single defect.

Increased Value?: The CGC does not make any claims as to the value of the comics they grade. However, it has been seen (on eBay and elsewhere) that CGC-graded comics are often sold at prices above those listed in the Overstreet Price Guide. It is reasonable to assume that this is due to the guaranteed grade, as well as the value of the protective holder. The assurance that a comic has been reliably graded, and is protected for safe storage, is obviously enough to convince buyers that it's worth spending the extra dollars!

  • komicbob posts:

    Hey people there's some interesting input on CGC in the Greg Manning catalog. I think there may be a LITTLE bias here 'cause he had about 400 slabbed books for sale in the catalog...

    "The most significant event in the comic world within the past year has been the introduction of the Comics Guaranty Corporation, most often referred to simply as the 'CGC'. CGC provides a number of services that greatly benefit our hobby.

    • Consumer protection through a restoraion check. This provides full disclosure of what was discovered during the grading procedure right on the label encapsulated along with the comic.
    • A market established grading standard. The CGC grading standard evolved from a wide survey of comic book dealers and collectors alike. While grading comics remains an art where opinions can differ, this market standard helps one to better know what to expect when purchasing comics, especially through mail or internet trade.
    • A high tech comic book holder. The CGC protective holder is slim, lightweight and tamper evident, but can be opened , if need be. It's a huge advance in the technologhy of comic book preservation and storage.
    • An industry standard grading scale. This 1 to 10 scale provides the consumers (dealers included) with a reliable, consistent and easy to understand grade, which allows a higher convidence level to exisit in the comic book marketplace.

    GMAI is an advocate of the comic book certification service for a number of reasons, the most important being the consumer protection aspect which will ultimaltely stimulate the comic book market place like it has the rare coin and baseball card market before it. There is great appeal to the notion of purchasing an item without seeing it and knowing exactly what to expect upon delivery."

The Case Against the CGC

Slabbing: Encasing a coin in clear plastic makes sense; it protects the coin against damage, but allows you to see the whole coin. The same goes for stamps, and trading cards. But a comic is a book, with pages, and interesting things inside. Once you've slabbed it, you cannot see those things. Sure, you can take it out of the slab, but then why did you put it in there in the first place? There are other ways of protecting comics against damage, ways which allow you to see the book at your leisure.

Grading: A standardized grading system would be a major benefit to comic collectors. As it is now, one person's FN may be another's VG, and may be influenced by undesirable motives. The CGC offers a guaranteed grade according to a standardized system, but currently (Apr 2000) says that the grading system is "beta," and that the system is subject to change. What does that do to the guarantee put on comics today?

Old Grades and New: The CGC has several categories of grading systems: Old comics, New comics, Restored comics, and "Conditional" grades (e.g. "NM, except for one defect"). Most collectors would like to see a single grading system (possibly excepting Restored comics); an old comic should not be treated "kindly" just because it's old, and if a comic has a defect, it's not NM.

Hype: Somewhere, sellers and/or buyers are being convinced that CGC comics are worth more, presumably because of the guarantee. This does not stand up to reason, yet slabbed comics are being bought for prices which are anywhere from three to ten times the price listed in the Overstreet guide. Why? What convinces people that there's that much extra value in a slabbed comic?

  • rcheli posts:

    The word that CGC uses for the "one flaw otherwise" is "qualified" (get it right, young man). I think that that's their worst trait. Another point is that does the same person grade every comic? If not, there is bound to be variations among grades -- which we expect anyway now as it is.

  • whbjr posts:

    Right, "qualified," sorry - I wanted that link! (whine whine whine, I was under a time constraint, okay?) Also, it's worth noting that the CGC has already been seen to make mistakes (a generous way to look at it), thus raising the question: What, exactly does the guarantee get you? A refund on the grading-and-slabbing fee? "But I spent $10,000 for this comic which is only worth $5,000! Where's my refund?"

  • stupidman posts:

    Yeah, how and/or who grades these comics at CGC? Was it Sothebys or another big auction house that had 3 people grade a book and then average the scores? Wouldn't that make things fluctuate less?

  • fingfangfoom posts:

    Dealers like this destroy the 'feeder system' of new collectors. We did this once back in the late eighties early nineties, are we going to do it again?

  • wildwest63 posts:

    ...it wouldnt suprise me very much if they don't start pushing the slabbing itself, coming out and saying that the book's worth 2x guide because its slabbed, as Ive seen done in both cards and coins.

  • drskull9 posts:

    When an appraisal company (a real one) appraises anything it is with a set of controls. They would be horrified to even have to look at a Spawn #1. In my opinion, the CGC should ONLY grade comics Silver-Age and back or risk making themselves into a laughing stock... Common is as Common does.


CGC Pros and Cons
posting by ellegon

I can see several points where the CGC is providing a service that is very marketable and desired by some in the comic community, but I can also see a larger number of points where the actions of the company, and, even more specifically, what those who are jumping on the bandwagon of "slabbing" are doing will eventually hurt the comic industry.

Positive Points:

  1. CGC offers a 3rd person analysis of comic books for those who are unable - either due to experience or physical locality - to grade comics themselves.
  2. The container used for CGC-graded books appears to give a good level of protection for the comic in question.
  3. CGC grading states that they look for restoration, which many collectors may not have experience with.
Negative Points:
  1. The existence of a "QUALIFIED GRADE" and a "MODERN GRADE" indicates a scalar on grading (An old book gets graded more loosely than a modern comic because of age or availability.) In my opinion, if a comic is a NM except for a bunch of child's scribbles or cut coupon on pages 3 and 4, it is no longer a NM. Similarly, if the comic is 50 years old, and compared to a modern comic, it looks like a Fine, it is not a NM because of age and the fact that there are not as many copies around. It is a Fine.
  2. The lack of a set standard for grading (at least, nothing that I can see via the CGC website) indicates that each grader grades using his or her own criteria. There is not even a mention of Overstreet standards, which have themselves changed to become more flexible as years have passed to allow more and more defects in the higher grades. How can the CGC guarantee the grading of a comic if the standards and rules for what constitutes a (CGC) VG vs a F vs a VF are not clearly laid out? Does tape on a cover automatically place the comic into a Fair grade, or a qualified VG+?
  3. The slabbing process and voiding of the grade if opened provides a ready made way to explain away inaccurate grading. Comics have an interior - unlike coins or stamps - so there is no way to guarantee the veracity of the grading without giving an open excuse for missing something. The grading and sticker removal rules also assume that no degradation of the comic will take place while in plastic - something cannot be proven or dis-proven at this time. (A colleague of mine off of eBay recently purchased a high CGC-graded comic, and found that it was missing pages. Yet he cannot go back to the CGC and complain because as soon as the case is opened, the grading is invalid and no longer guaranteed.)
  4. The CGC seems to be positioning itself as an advocate on behalf of dealers, and not on the behalf of collectors, or even has been pointed out in recent publications, much for investors. The investors main benefit would seem to be my 1st point under positive - having a third person look at a comic in question before you buy as an evaluation of it's worth - perhaps due to physical proximity to the sale. But even according to posts and comments left on the CGC website, some sellers on eBay have been realizing a "twenty times guide" result in their auctions because of the CGC label. With all due respect to the CGC, the fact that a comic is graded by this company should not confer a greater value BECAUSE it has been graded by CGC. A NM whatever valued at 100 dollars in Overstreet should not garner any more than a non-CGC graded comic, in my opinion. If I want to purchase a high grade whatever as a collector, and not as an investor, your company is encouraging dealers to make it cost exponentially more for me to purchase said comics.
  5. The CGC seems to be skewing the price guides in such a way as to discourage future collectors and investors.
    • Case in point - a little while ago, I found a NM Spawn #1 comic graded by CGC that sold for $91.00 on eBay. Coincidentally, at the same time, another auction that was for 50 (FIFTY) Spawn #1 (bagged and boarded) NM that also sold for $91.00.
    • Case in Point - a CGC-graded near mint Fantastic Four #48 recently sold for $2400.00 dollars on eBay. It was a nice book, but at the same timethere were a fair number of other auctions of non-CGC graded books, also nice books, which were selling in the $100-200 range.
    How will either of these two buyers (as investors or speculators) ever realize a profit on their books? These kind of events I worry / suspect will lead to another market crash like what was seen in the early and mid 90's, which will hurt all comic collectors. (Speculators spend horrendous amounts on comics on which it is doubtful they will ever make a profit, and when they realize this, they dump as many of them as possible in order to get some return on their investment, driving all prices down and perhaps costing dealers some of their livelihood...short term gain for long term pain?)

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Posted by akashoeman (???) star about me on Aug-21-00 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Dos and Don'ts

Dos for Buyers
posted by akashoeman

Here are a few tips to help you find what you want and get it at a price you can afford.

"A little knowledge..." - First of all, you need to do yourself a favor and purchase a price guide, ANY price guide. This will give you a good idea of the current market value of the book you're interested in. Generally speaking, it's really not worth your while to pay 2 or 3x guide + shipping (unless you happen to live in the middle of nowhere and have limited access to retailers). Before you even begin a search, use the guide to determine the maximum amount you're willing to bid.

"Search for stupidity" - Before you type in exactly what you're looking for, first try running a search on possible misspellings and misidentifications. For example: You're looking for an issue of Shock SuspenStories. Try inputting Shock Suspense Stories or, even better, Shock Suspence Stories. You'll be amazed what you come up with, and these auctions are ususally overlooked by bidders with access to a dictionary... and therefore go for lower bids.

"Read the fine print" - Check the seller's feedback. No brainer, right? Well, in the heat of passion we've all failed to take precautionary measures. Next, check out their policy on resolving disputes (ie: returns and refunds), and ask yourself if you'd feel comfortable dealing with this person. Finally, factor in all shipping/handling charges (if you find "handling" charges acceptable, that is) when determining how much you're willing to pay. Also, check which shipping method the seller will be using, as well as the method of packaging (ie: bagged and/or boarded, etc.). Still have issues with the seller's issues? That's what the "ask seller a question" link is for... and remember, no response is a response in itself.

"Bottom line... snipe" - "Sniping" is the practice of waiting until the last possible moment to place your maximum bid. Many sellers dislike this practice, as it results in lower winning bids. Many buyers also dislike this practice, as it results in being outbid at the last second. Relying on the proxy bidding system by entering your maximum bid days in advance of the end of auction not only draws attention to the item but also gives other bidders time to "feel you out". By waiting as long as possible to enter your max bid, you stand a much better chance of not only winning the item, but getting it for a lower price.

"When in doubt, pass" - One-of-a-kind collectibles are few and far between on eBay. If you miss out on something you're interested in, chances are it will turn up again in the very near future, so don't sweat it!


Don'ts for Sellers
posted by Raphe Cheli

There are some common listing errors that first time sellers not usually dealing in comics make. By finding errors before you post an auction, you are more likely to have more people see and bid on the items.

"The comic has been in a bag." - Whenever I read this in an auction, I ask myself, "So what?" Bags mean nothing, for the most part, unless you know when the comic was placed in it. If the comic already was water-stained, mangled by the house pet, and slept with, a bag isn't going to do much. If the bag it's been kept in for the last twenty has begun to decompose, then it's doing it more harm than good.

"It looks good for its age." - What does that mean, exactly? I've seen 110 year-old people that look good for their age, but that isn't saying much. Comics that are 50 years old should be graded the same as one that's two months old, using the same standards. You'll get into a lot of trouble with buyers if you assume too much about what something should look like at a certain age.

"It's very rare." - If you are a true collector of comics (and even if you're not, you're selling to people that are), the words "rare" and "scarce" mean something, and probably not the same thing as what you think. Just because a comic is 20, 30, or even 40 years old doesn't mean that it's scarce. In comic terms, rare and scare are reserved for items that might have less than 1,000 copies in existence. Off the top of my head, I can't think of any comic published in the last 30 years that can be considered scarce or rare. So beware, seller, because if you list something as "Web of Spiderman 68, RARE," you're not likely to get many bids.

"Shipping 7.00" - Shipping charges can make or break a potential bid and a good sale, especially if the value/final price is less than $20. It costs $3.20 to ship a comic priority mail, almost half that if you send it first class. Buyers don't want to pay exorbitant prices to ship a comic, and if you do send it out with $1.80 postage when the winning bidder paid $5, don't expect positive feedback and return business.

"Will not ship outside of the U.S." - This doesn't go for just comics, but I wanted to put it in here anyway. Although I haven't sold much, when I have sold to people outside the U.S., I've never had any trouble. They understand about 1) the time that it takes for something to get there, 2) the extra cost involved, and 3) the need to pay in American currency. Overseas bidders are also often more likely to pay higher prices for items because they can't find it in the country that they're living. It's one extra form at the post office. Try it, and I'm sure you won't be disappointed.

"It's in fair condition." - Watch out for the word "fair". In comic grading terms, that's one of the worst, barely treading water above the aptly named Poor. Fair comics have pieces out of the cover, pages missing, tape, multiple tears; you name it, it's got it wrong with it. Familiarize yourself with the various grades (as seen elsewhere on this site), and you'll make a better listing.

"Something to consider." - One of the bigger problems that older comics face is the missing page. Before you list, count the pages. 95% of all comics have pages that can be divided by 8 -- 32, 48, 64, 80. If you're unsure of how many pages your comic should have, another good way to check is to look at the centerfold and see if the story on the one page continues onto the next. (Read the last panel on the one page and the first on the next, or, better yet, check the page numbers and see if they are continuous.) Check also for cut out coupons; they're another hidden fault.

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Posted by hoknes (????) star about me on Aug-21-00 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Guide to Comic Books

This is a general guide to various aspects of comic books (history/grading/internet). More detailed and accurate information can be obtained from various sources, including fans from eBay's Comics Board. [Note: This post has been heavily edited during this recent update to remove redundant material. To view The Big Ape in its entirity please visit hoknes' me page.]


Selling Comics On eBay:

There are different ways to market your comics on ebay to achieve the best sales!

First of all you should try and get a copy of the Overstreet Comic Book Price Guide (around $22.00 in stores). It lists virtually every comic book ever published, and has information on the dates, values, contents, etc.

Looking at the bottom of the first interior page of each comic, you will find a listing of the title of the book and its issue number, the comics publisher, and the publication date. Make sure you mention as many of these details as possible in your descriptions.

All books with 10 and 12 cent cover prices should be listed individually! Learn how to grade the book as best you can and include a scan of the comic.

If you have little money tied up in the book then simply start the auction at 1/2 of the price guide value and the market will raise the price if it is indeed popular.

If you have money tied up in the book then I suggest starting the book at $1.00 and set a reserve price at the minimum amount you will sell the book for. Reserves do not always work but at least they will safely prevent you from giving the book away!

Be sure you give a detailed description of all defects. Condition really affects the value of older books. A scan is a must for older books. Try putting up a scan as a JPG or GIF picture file (no bigger than 200 K in size).

Comics from 1970 to 2000 should only be listed individually if their value is at least $4.00 (if they are superhero titles) or at least $2.00 each if they are non-superhero titles. No need for a scan of every single book but a scan of at least the nicest or worst book in the collection would be nice. Grading does not need to be as picky but you should give a good quick overview of the condition of the books so the buyer has a better idea of what they are getting.

Comics from 1970 to 2000 in general are very easy to find and are not worth much. Therefore most bidders will not pay shipping on a single cheap book. For this reason you should try listing books in small lots or sets based on similar features such as:
Lot of superhero comics from same publisher (ie. Marvel comics), romance comics, children's titles, western-related, tv/movie themed, treasury sized comics, genre books, cover price (ie. 40 cents), same artist or writer.

Keep in mind that 90% of comics published in the last 20 years will never bring more than 25 cents each even if the price guide says it's worth more. Most of these books are so easy to find in local markets that nobody will bother paying for them through the mail.

All comics published in the past 20 years are VERY EASY to find and you will never get close to guide on them if they are superhero comics. Other genres will do better as a rule! Any price guide you use is only an indication of retail store value. Selling privately on the internet almost automatically means you must discount books.

When selling you must keep in mind that it takes money and time just to run an auction.

10 Steps to Holding a Comics Auction:

  1. Pick out the book for sale.
  2. Scan a picture of the cover in its entirety (do not cut off the edges).
  3. Upload the picture to your server or to a free webspace provider (ie. Geocities or AuctionWatch).
  4. Fill out eBay's "sell your item" form.
  5. You must include a description with a sales pitch for the book. Include as much information as possible: condition (grade), year, title, issue #, artist/writer, etc.
  6. Set the starting price (or reserve) based on comments above.
  7. List your item preferably between 6 and 10 pm (depending on the number of days you're planning on running your auction, try to do this so that they end on a weekend) to reach the maximum amount of bidders.
  8. When the auction is over you must email the winner and tell them how much they owe incl. shipping. When determining shipping, make sure you include your expenses (envelope/packaging/postage).
  9. Make sure you offer insurance to the buyer or you will be responsible for refunding their money due to loss or damage of the parcel.
  10. Get the proper supplies to pack your book safely so it does not get dinged or bent during shipping. It is recommended that you put the comic in a bag with board and put it in a padded envelope between pieces of cardboard for safest shipping.
Once you have finished your first auction you will find it may take as much as 30 minutes of your time for the above "things to do". If your books are fairly cheap you will soon realize its better to sell in small lots otherwise you will spend a lot of time for very little profit.

Tips For Descriptions In Your Auctions:

Try to include a scan of the book (JPG or GIF), give the official title of the book (listed in the indicia), the issue #, the publisher, and the date (it's handy but not necessary). Remind bidders to take a look at your other auctions if you have similar items up for sale. DO NOT mention other items you have for sale privately and DO NOT state that you would like to buy/sell/trade with other eBayers in your description! Never include a banner to someone else's website, only your own is allowed! Try to grade accurately. If you do not feel comfortable at grading than just describe the defects as much as possible and DO NOT list a grade at all! Keep scans smaller than 200 K in size otherwise the picture is too slow to load and most people will give up and NOT BID!


HOW TO GRADE AND VALUES:

For important information on the grade and value of comic books, click here.

Establishing Time Periods:

  • Pre-1897 (Victorian Era)... Very first comic strip type material appeared in print.
  • 1897-1933 (Platinum Era)... The first compilations of newspaper comic strips in book form appeared in various sizes proving that there was a large audience that was willing to pay for comics. Very rare in FN or better - usually brittle and heavily browned. KEY ISSUE: Yellow Kid #1
  • 1933-1938 (Pre-Golden Age Era)... First comic books marketed in the format currently used. Most were reprint titles. The first major comic companies appeared including DC in 1935. Most comics from this period are scarce.
  • 1938-1945 (Golden Age Era)... War years saw the first boom of popularity in comic books. Collecting was as yet unknown and therefore most did not survive. A few hundred are the most likely to survive of any issue. Rare in FN or better. Comics were huge sellers due to being marketed to both adults and children. KEY ISSUE: Action Comics #1 (1st app of Superman 1938)
  • 1946-1956 (Atomic Age Era)... The post war years saw Romance/War/Horror/Teen Humor/Funny Animal titles outselling superhero comics.  Many comics from this era are the rarest since many comics were aimed at only a young audience.  Most are FN or less in condition. KEY ISSUE: Captain Science #1
  • 1956-1969(Silver Age Era)... This was the return of the popularity of the superhero. DC started revivals in 1956 but Marvel did not join until 1961 with the Fantastic Four. Comics above VF are extremely scarce, and Marvel Comics commonly have chipping along trimmed edges.  KEY ISSUE: Showcase #4 (1st app. of the "modern" Flash, 1956)
  • 1969-1979 (Bronze Age Era)... Overstreet Price Guide starts publishing creating a mainstream awareness of value to comics. Therefore superhero comics are easy to find up to VF and non-superhero up to FN.  KEY ISSUE: Green Lantern #76 (1st Neal Adams issue, 1970)
  • 1979-present (Modern Age Era)... The standard is NM copies. Most comics have been bagged and boarded and are easy to find in high grade.   KEY ISSUE: World Of Krypton #1 (1st comic book mini-series, 1979)
You can generally judge the age of a comic book by its original cover price. 90% of comics from their particular eras had the following for a cover price:

1933-1962 - 10 cents
1962-1969 - 12 cents
1969-1971 - 15 cents
1971-1974 - 20 cents
1974-1976 - 25 cents
1976-1977 - 30 cents
1977-1979 - 35 cents
1979-1980 - 40 cents
1980-1982 - 50 cents
1982-1985 - 60 cents
1985-1986 - 65 cents
1986-1988 - 75 cents

The cheapest current superhero comic has a minimum cover price of $1.99.

The Indicia as an Identifier:

The most important thing about identifying a comic book is knowing its official title. Most assume it's the title printed in large lettering on the front cover. But not necessarily so! The indicia is the fine print usually located at the bottom of the first interior page. It gives the official title of the comic given by the publisher, issue number, date, copyright, and other general information. This linked example is a comic which might be believed to be called "Hanna and Barbara's Yogi Bear". Taking a quick look at the indicia tells us the title of the comic is simply Yogi Bear. #7 is the issue number which means that the next issue published was #8 and so on. Most comics are published monthly or bi-monthly, and are lucky to last 3 years (36 monthly issues). Yet some titles have been popular enough to last over 700 issues! A property like Yogi Bear has been published off and on over the years by different publishing companies. This particular issue was published by Dell Comics, which is obvious on the cover, but the indicia also lets us know. This is very helpful in describing which comic it is exactly since 3 different comics have appeared from different publishers titled Yogi Bear (and all three printed a #7 issue).


Collection and Investing:

If you are a new collector and are serious about trying to put together a collection of comic books then I recommend going through the following list:

  1. Decide how much can you spend a month. This will tell you how big your want list should be. Do not go overboard or you will spend too much too quickly.
  2. Pick your favorite titles whether it be for sentimental reasons or investment reasons and stick to the ones you want the most.
  3. Again, based on your price range decide what condition you want to collect. Lower grade can bring much more pleasure at a smaller price unless you are a "condition freak" who wants everything perfect for top dollar!
If you would like to learn more about Golden, Atomic, Silver and Bronze age books then you MUST do the following... Purchase the Overstreet Comic Book Price Guide, and consider purchasing Ernest Gerber's Photo Journal Guide to Comics Vol. 1-4 (38,000 comic book covers in total pictured). You may also wish to examine and reserve copies of the monthly magazine Comic Book Marketplace, for which I write!

Top Selling Comic Book Publishers:

MARVEL / DC / DELL / CHARLTON / ARCHIE / GOLD KEY / HARVEY / IMAGE / EC / AMERICAN COMICS GROUP / VALIANT / CENTAUR / WARREN / FOX / AVON

Top Selling Comic Titles by Decade:

Pre40: BRINGING UP FATHER / MUTT AND JEFF / LITTLE ORPHAN ANNIE
1940s: CAPTAIN MARVEL / WALT DISNEYS COMICS AND STORIES / SUPERMAN
1950s: WALT DISNEYS COMICS AND STORIES / FOUR COLOR COMICS / SUPERMAN
1960s: SUPERMAN / AMAZING SPIDERMAN / FANTASTIC FOUR
1970s: SUPERMAN / AMAZING SPIDERMAN / CONAN / STAR WARS
1980s: UNCANNY XMEN / AMAZING SPIDERMAN / GI JOE
1990s: SPAWN / XMEN / WOLVERINE / UNCANNY XMEN


THANKS TO THOSE WHO HAVE PROVIDED INFORMATION FOR THIS POST

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