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Going Postal
Posted by whbjr (???) star about me on Oct-15-04 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Index

Are you "going postal," just trying to figure out how to get your comics to your buyer? Are storage questions making you ready to pull a comic bag over your head? (If so, will your head fit in a Modern-size bag, or do you need Golden-Age bags?) You came to the right place - you've got questions, we've got answers!
Posted by whbjr (???) star about me on Oct-15-04 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Media Mail? Are Comics "Books"?

Can I send my comics via Media Mail, the rate formerly known as Book Rate? I know the post office says they have advertisements, but these are old comics, so the advertisements are obsolete, right?

It might seem "obvious" that comics can be sent via Media Mail, and in fact many people have had no trouble doing so. However, other people have reported that postal clerk have quizzed them at length about the contents of their packages, insisted that "comics aren't books," and even opened packages for inspection.

First Rule of the United States Postal Service: It Depends On Who You Talk To. In many matters, but particularly when it comes to the interpretation and enforcement of the rules, much discretion is left to the clerk receiving the package from the customer. This means that if you're a nice person and the postal clerk is a nice person, you can smile and say "Media Mail, please," and no questions will be asked. On the other hand, if the clerk thinks you look like a fraud, cheat, terrorist, or (worst of all) comic-book fan, then you're going to have to defend your honor, as well as that of your package.

You may be surprised to learn that the USPS has always had the right to open and inspect packages which are being sent by a "special" (meaning low-cost) rate. The latest word from various sources is that someone at USPS Central sent out an edict telling postal clerks to get more suspicious about people using Media Mail. That just means that they're more likely to (try to) enforce the rules. The rules themselves haven't changed, but neither has the fact that it's all "local enforcement" - see the First Rule, above.

Alternative Suggestion: Bound Printed Matter (BPM)
"Bound Printed Matter" is just about the same price as Media Mail in most cases, but it's based on distance (zones), whereas Media is a flat rate. So, it's more of a pain for a seller to estimate the actual postage for BPM. However, if you've got to send your packages by the cheapest way possible, and you've got a clerk saying "Comics aren't books," then ask for Bound Printed Matter - sometimes, they'll even be the ones suggesting it!

One minor drawback to using either Media Mail or BPM: Return postage is NOT included, so if your package can't be delivered, they will NOT return it to you - they'll throw it away. You can and should write "Return Postage Guaranteed" on your package, but that's your guarantee to them, it's not a guarantee from them that they'll notice your words and return your package.

One major drawback to using BPM: It's cheap, and the mail handlers know it's cheap, so it gets the worst possible treatment. The way one person described it, "When the mail truck gets bogged down in the mud, BPM is what they throw under the wheels to get the truck out." Wrap your packages extra-sturdily, and don't forget to put the comics inside a plastic bag before putting them in the box!

Getting back to Media Mail, though... One over-zealous Board Regular actually talked to an actual authority at the actual Post Office, and found a loophole in the regulations: If the package is less than 16 ounces, it can contain a mixture of Media and non-Media items, and still be sent via Media Mail. One thing which easily qualifies as Media Mail is sheet music - say, for instance, a copy of The Star-Spangled Banner. If you had that, with a copy of the relevant sections of the postal regulations printed on the back, you'd be all set, wouldn't you?

The Star-Spangled Banner, DMM 610 and DMM 713 (PDF format, 20 kBytes)

For further reading, I highly suggest the archived copy of a thread from the eBay Comics Forum: Media vs Priority Mail

Posted by whbjr (???) star about me on Aug-21-00 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Shipping Comics

General Concepts
The first rule of shipping comics is: Keep it flat! Remember, every bend, wrinkle, and crease is another demerit for that comic. Even if you think "Oh, it's so old and beat-up already, I'm sure it won't matter," remember that the person on the receiving end wants the best they can get, which probably means "old, beat-up, and flat!"

Cardboard. You'll want cardboard. And a knife or something to cut it down to size, of course, but you've got to have cardboard. The best way to protect a comic in shipment is to sandwich it between two pieces of cardboard, each of which is slightly larger than the comic. Because comics are about 7" by 10", I've found that 8" by 11" cardboards are just right - and that fits nicely into most envelopes, too!

Please keep in mind that the thin, white cardboard used to store comics (the "backing" board that goes in with a plastic bag) is not enough to keep a comic flat in shipment. Using multiple backing boards doesn't really help much, either, since it's still relatively easy to bend a short stack of them. Stick with plain, old corrugated cardboard.

Supplies
Got your cardboard? Great! Here are a few other things you'll need:
- Bag and board for the comics
- Tape
- Envelope or Box

Let's take it from the top:

Bag and Board: As mentioned, you should probably put each comic in a plastic bag, with a backing board. Not just any bag and board! Your local comic shop would be glad to sell you as many bags and boards as you need - from one to a thousand. Try to resist the temptation to use an "almost-right" bag, or to skip the backing board, or to use some other form of stiff paper or cardboard. These are all the wrong way to save money, since they'll either not help preserve the comic, or actually damage it!

In addition, when I'm packing comics for shipment, I like to put the bagged comic in another plastic bag. This can be just about any kind of bag, and ensures that the "real" bag doesn't get tape goo on it.

Tape: "Oh, come on, tape is tape, right?" Well, yes and no. The problem is that neither regular cellophane tape nor masking tape are very good at sticking to cardboard for a very long time, so you really ought to use packing tape - I use the 2" wide size.

Envelope or Box: Okay, now we're getting into specifics: How many comics are you shipping? What "class" of shipping are you using? We'll get into specifics below, but here's an "obvious" point: Make sure the envelope or box can hold the comic(s), after they've been padded with cardboard! (Can you guess how I learned this lesson?)

One comic
Okay, you've got your cardboard and tape and all, and you're ready to go!

  • Put the comic in the comic bag, with backing board
  • (Optional) Put the bagged comic in a generic bag
  • Put the comic between two pieces of slightly-larger cardboard, and tape that "sandwich," using packing tape.
    • Here's a refinement: If you can, use one piece of cardboard with top-to-bottom corrugations, and the other with left-to-right corrugations. This makes the sandwich extra strong!
  • Put the sandwich in an envelope, add address and postage, and you're done!
Well, of course, I skipped the part about picking the envelope and postage.

As always, shipping choices come down to deciding between time and money. (Chances are, the recipient was the one who made this decision, but it's a good idea for you to keep these things in mind.) Is this a cheap comic, not deserving of deluxe treatment? Then you probably want to use a plain, manila envelope, and First Class mail; depending on the weight, this will cost $1.18 to $2.30. Does the recipient want the comic NOW, and hang the cost? Then you probably want to use one of the Postal Service's Priority Mail envelopes, the ones marked "Flat Rate;" this will cost $3.95 (Note that if you use your own envelope and it's one pound or less, it's a mere $3.50). Or you can use Express Mail for overnight shipping: $12.25 and up. Ouch! At this size, the Postal Service is probably the most economical choice; UPS and other package-oriented businesses are better for larger items. Note that the choice of shipping methods does not change the way you pack the comic!

Some people prefer to use padded envelopes (either lined with "foamy" plastic, or bubble-plastic), and I can see why - the padding does a great job of preventing most dents and dings, and the plastic keeps most moisture from getting to the comics inside. And they work well whether you're using First Class or Priority Mail - no need to keep two kinds of envelopes on hand! However, even though padded envelopes are stiffer than plain ones, you still need to sandwich your comic in cardboard - keep it flat!

"Do Not Bend": Should you write this on the envelope? It seems like an obvious thing to do, but here are a couple points to consider: Like it or not, such notices do draw attention to your package, and all it takes is one contrary-minded person to undo your hard work. Also, my opinion is that if you've got nice, stiff cardboard, saying "Do Not Bend" is just redundant. Personally, I almost never add that notice.

Two to Ten comics
This is pretty much the same as shipping one comic, with just a few exceptions.

Bag and Board: If you're sending multiple recent comics in a series, e.g. Iron Man #320 to #330, most collectors won't mind if you put two comics in one bag. If you're sending a bunch of cheap comics (25¢ each, or less), you can probably put them all in one bag. But remember the first rule: Keep them flat!

Cardboard: Yes, you still want to sandwich this stack of comics between two pieces of cardboard.

Envelope: Here's where it starts getting tricky, because it's hard to get more than eight comics (in cardboard) into a regular envelope. If you're using Priority Mail, you might check out the large Tyvek® envelopes at the post office - your cardboard sandwich is sure to fit in one! When I use one of those, I seal it up normally, then fold and tape all the loose parts, so that it's a tidy bundle, rather than having the comics sliding around inside.

Ten to One Zillion comics
Now things get different! Obviously, you'll have to switch from an envelope to a box. But what box?

It's easy to get a box that holds a couple hundred comics - it's called a "short box," and it's available through most comic shops for about three or four dollars. Pack it with comics, tape it up tight, and you're ready to ship! (I still recommend a plastic bag, for moisture protection; use a wastebasket-size trash bag to line the box.) The difficult task is finding the right size box for your in-between size stack of comics. Look at the stack, visualize something else that size, then go to a store that sells those things and see if they've got an old box! (Who says comic collectors aren't creative?!)

However you obtain your box, remember to pack it tightly enough that the comics don't shift around inside. Again, put the comics inside a "generic" bag (such as a plastic grocery bag) and tape that closed - it'll help hold them together as a unit, making it easier to pack the rest of the box with foam peanuts or crumpled paper or whatever.

Now that we're getting to seriously heavy boxes (10 pounds or more), it's probably worth your while checking alternatives to the post office; UPS is the usual choice for this size shipment, although FedEx Home Delivery is not as expensive as you might suspect.

General Shipping Info
Web sites: No surprise here - all the big shippers have helpful Web sites, including the post office!

US Postal Service - Be sure to see their Rate Calculator
United Parcel Service - They've also got a Quick Cost Calculator
FedEx - Surprise! They also have a "Get Rates" page!
Media Rate: This was formerly known as "Book Rate" or "Special Standard Rate." It's much cheaper than other rates for packages over a pound, and it's got an entire set of restrictions in the USPS guidelines. Frankly, though, it seems to come down to one simple question: Will the clerk at the post office allow you to send a package marked "Book Rate," or will they refuse it ("Comics are not books")? You'll never know until you try, right? And even in one post office, one clerk might allow it and another clerk refuse it. Good luck! (This is why it pays to be nice to the postal clerks.)

Insurance? It's a good idea to insure your package, but keep in mind what you're getting. If the package is lost or damaged, the sender collects the insurance money, not the recipient - if the recipient paid you for the comics, then presumably you'd use the insurance to refund their money. I've heard stories of both success and failure at getting a payment for postal insurance - use your judgment.

Delivery Tracking? This service was introduced by the USPS in 1999 or so, and it's useful for what it does, but you need to understand what it does not do. Delivery Tracking lets you know when our package was delivered. Sometimes, not always, it lets you know where your package is during shipment, e.g. sitting in a warehouse in Kansas City. My opinion is that it's useful if you need verification that your comics got there - to be blunt, if you don't trust the recipient to tell you. For the most part, I don't use Delivery Tracking.

Shipping outside the US
Not in the United States? I apologize for the US-centric approach I've taken here, but most of this information is taken from my personal experiences, and I've only resided in one country. We'd love your help with non-US shipping info - send mail to the editor! Meanwhile here's one bit of assistance: The USPS has a short page of links to Other Postal Web Sites.

Sending outside the United States? This opens up a fairly large set of issues, but let's stick to basic assumptions: We'll assume that the recipient has paid you appropriately, that it's legal for them to receive your comics in their country, and that you're using the US Postal Service. The two things you'll have to handle now are:

  • Customs Forms: In most circumstances, you need to fill out USPS Form 2976, declaring a value for the contents of your package. You'll also need to declare whether it's a gift, or merchandise; this usually determines whether or not the recipient has to pay duty fees. Strictly speaking, if the recipient paid you for the comics, you should check the "Merchandise" box, but it's not uncommon for people to try to avoid the fees.
  • Postage Options: Again, the trade-off is speed vs. time! If your package is 4 pounds or less, you can send it via "Global Priority Mail" (3 to 5 days, $9), and "Small Packet - Surface" (4 to 6 weeks, usually under $5) allows packages up to 11 pounds. Chances are, the recipient of your comics knows about these options, and can give you as much advice and information as you need.
dpxcomicsgirl  (75 ) View Listings | Report Jun-30-07 20:54 PDT 4 of 9
For ten comics or more use a box. The comics must be tightly wrapped in bags to prevent shifting inside the box, and adding cardboard padding or bubble wrap to protect the corners is a good idea.

For less comics I just build a custom box:
Posted by whbjr (???) star about me on Aug-21-00 at 00:00:00 PDTAuctions
Storing Comics

Q. I'm not a comic book collector, but I have a lot of comics from my childhood. What's the best way to preserve them? I know I need to do something other than keeping them in a cardboard box.

A. The two things you might want to do right away are to put them in bags (with a backing board), and store them standing upright in either a long or short comic box. The bag-and-board preserves them and keep them flat, and storing them upright helps keep them flat (provided a board is helping!); If you store the comics stacked on top of each other the spines will eventually roll.

Also, keep them in the ever-popular "cool, dry place." The basement is almost always the wrong place for comics, or any other papers, for that matter, since it's almost always more damp than the rest of the house. Be careful of the attic, though, since excessive heat will cause the pages to get brown and brittle. Picky little devils, aren't they?

Q. Bags? Boards? You mean, like this zip-loc Baggie and some plywood?

A. No, not just any bag and board! You want to get plastic bags designed for storing comics, and special acid-free backing boards, too. Your local comic shop would be glad to sell you as many bags and boards as you need - from one to a thousand. Around here, one bag-and-board costs 15¢, but I like to get a pack of 100 bags, for about $5 or $6, and 100 boards for $8 or $9. Be sure to get the right size - newer comics are slightly smaller than old comics, and you'd hate to get a bunch of too-small bags!

Try to resist the temptation to use an "almost-right" bag, or to skip the backing board, or to use some other form of stiff paper or cardboard. These are all the wrong way to save money, since they'll either not help preserve the comic, or actually damage it!

Q. The guy at the comic store said "You should use my light bags." What's he talking about? I never can understand that guy.

A. He was probably talking about "Mylite" bags, but you never know. They're also known as "Snugs," and are made of thin Mylar, very crinkley but very tough. Not surprisingly, they're also more expensive!

"Regular" comic bags, which are made of polypropylene, which will deteriorate after a while and need to be changed - every five years is a good rule of thumb. Mylites (and other Mylar bags), on the other hand, have basically inert chemical properties, so they won't interact with the comic paper - at least that's what DuPont tells us!

Q. What about the fancy stiff-plastic holders he uses to display his fancy comics? Also, is it important to get the air out of the bag? Or am I just getting a little paranoid now, after all these years of neglect?

A. Were the holders flat? If so, they were Mylar sleeves. Like Mylite, they're made of "inert" plastic, and the choice of serious collectors who take good care of their best comics.

The really serious collectors put the book in a Mylar sleeve, turn it over, and put it inside another Mylar sleeve that has a backing board in it so that the only thing touching the comic is the Mylar. It's not important to get the air out of the sleeves - many Mylars are open-topped, anyway, to let the book "breathe." If you're using regular poly-bags, you'll want to get out as much air as possible, but this is so the books will "stack" properly.

Q. No, he had a bunch of comics for sale in holder things, with a colored tag at the top, and there was a hologram sticker on the tag.

A. SLABBED COMICS!!! RUN AWAY!!! RUN AWAY!!!

But seriously, that might be a great way to store comics, but it's designed to stay sealed up. If you never want to read your comics, and you don't mind paying $20 to $95 per comic, go ahead!

Q. Okay, well, getting back to the Mylars and Mylites and bags and boards, are there any on-line sources for these things? Or are you going to make me go to that comic shop again?

A. In this day and age? Of course there are on-line sources!


whbjr gratefully acknowledges that many of the above words of storage wisdom came from vinces@math.tamu.edu and stupidman


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